Which Camera? - Advice for Beginners

Sony DSC-RX100 III

I wanted to write this for a long time. Let's face it: The young generation uses smartphones for photography now, almost exclusively. And who could blame them? Those devices have been developed to a point where you need to look hard to detect a difference to a "real" camera, at least if you watch the images on their small screens. Do you need more?

Maybe, photography is now back to where it started, branching between professionals and hobbyists. There is as much need as always for high level professional photography. And the hobby photographer will continue to take images for pleasure as before. But the times when everybody wanted to have one of those new DSLR gadgets hanging from his (or more seldom her) neck are over. Most have switched to omni-present and light smartphones. Just look around on any tourist site.

It will be getting harder and harder to recommend a big camera to a casual photographer. The upcoming AI supported software will allow to transform mediocre shots into representable ones even on medium priced smartphones. Maybe worse, AI will allow to create realistically looking scenes out of nothing, just by adding a snapshot and a description. Smartphones already can generate 3D scenes easily. All this can be shared immediately because these phones are connected. Camera makers have slept for too long in this regard. We should have fast and reliable connections to our smart devices since ages marrying the two worlds, but we don't.

We have to rethink photography and why we use cameras instead of our smartphone. The times when a camera was simply superior in every situation will be over soon. For more special photography, however, there is no substitute. I cannot imagine a smartphone to deliver bird shots where long telephoto lenses are really required. Also, I don't think it makes sense to use a studio and an extensive light system, and then to shoot with a smartphone.

You don't need a dedicated camera for photography anymore. But if photography is your hobby and your joy, and you really want to dive into it, get one.

I write this for the hobbyist. It will be my personal opinion, and not everybody will agree. So, what advice would I give for a young one starting with photography as art, pleasure, or simply a way to watch the world? That should be easy:

Get a good, but not too expensive, camera with a kit zoom. And add a fast prime lens!

With the kit zoom, study the basics of good image composition, the light, and how to select the correct focal length. There is so much to learn! I know, because I am still learning. There are good books. Be sceptic of YouTube videos because they are too often about gear only. Maybe you find a good photo club and friends there. 

Another mistake I made is that I did not value the fast primes enough when I started. Of course, you can do almost everything with the kit zoom already. But much of that you can do with your smartphone too! A prime lens is one way to set you apart from simple shooting if you use it wisely. That's why I think you should add a fast prime lens to the starter kit. A simple 50mm F1.8 will do (50mm on a full frame camera).

What to plan next if you decide to exploit that hobby a bit more?

• The next item I would add is a good image editor to develop RAW images on your computer. You can use the JPEGs out of your camera for a start. But developing will bring a new level and new opportunities. I use Lightroom, but others have good results even with free editors.
• Another item would be a tripod, allowing long exposures. Even a small table tripod will be a big help at the start.
• Then, I'd advice to get a flash. Get one which can be used for bounced flash against walls or the ceiling. Even a direct flash can be useful as fill-flash in bright daylight. I use the Godox system with off camera flash options.

Mirrorless MFT versions DSLR APS-C

Which criterion should you use to select your camera? I am going to talk a lot below about sensor size. But I want to start with other reasons to prefer one system over the other.

• Do you prefer a larger body or a smaller one? As I explain below, this is related to sensor size, but not solely. Some cameras are simply designed for better handling, others to fit in a small pocket.
• Do you want a modern mirrorless camera or prefer an old-style optical viewfinder? You can get those used for cheap money. Coming from a smartphone, you probably want a mirrorless camera and compose images with the rear screen (which should be freely moveable).
• How important is video, especially more demanding formats like 4K and slow-motion? More modern cameras have more features here. Some have a mic jack, some don't. Some can face the display forward for selfie videos.
• Do you have a special interest like macros or bird photography? Then you need to look if an affordable lens is available for your desired camera. Lenses can get expensive, and they are more important than the camera.
• Do you know a friend who can assist you with your selected camera? It is not the worst idea to buy the same system as your buddy.

There are a lot more things to watch out for. But my central message is:

It is not a good idea to select a camera on megapixel count or sensor size alone. Rather, almost any modern camera can produce reasonable images.

So, go to your local dealer and try the camera. Watch YouTube videos explaining the pros and cons of your chosen camera. Maybe even rent it for a while. After a weak of usage, I rejected the Fuji system with its retro handling and decided that this is not the right camera for me.

Before I tell you about camera systems, I should explain the meaning of the sensor size. A larger sensor can simply collect more light and thus has a better signal to noise ratio. Consequently, the images will be cleaner in dim light, where the ISO has to be pushed up. Smartphones with their tiny sensors compensate that by noise reduction, so you do not see the issue. Still, details in the darker areas will be lost. A larger sensor will also more easily isolate subjects against a smooth background. The disadvantage is that it needs larger lenses.

The camera systems on the market are usually sorted by sensor size. This is not a completely adequate categorization. The processor, the view finder or the display are more important features in the end. But let me explain the main categories.

• Compact cameras have a small sensor with around 10mm diameter, already larger than even the most recent smartphones. Usually, their optics cannot be changed. Most common is a zoom from wide angle to telephoto. They may or may not have a view finder. There is a big variety, and the prices range from 300€ to 1200€. The more expensive ones squeeze a lot of features into a small body with tiny knobs and crowded menus. The Sony DSC-RX100 is a typical and recommendable example. Another good example is the Canon Powershot series.
• MFT (micro four-thirds) cameras have a sensor with a diagonal of 21mm in 4:3 format. They are usually mirrorless cameras with an electronic view finder. The lenses can usually be changed, and MFT features a standard mount between all MFT cameras. Thus, there is a big collection of lenses available. The cameras are still compact, although some have a big grip for big hands, lots of dials and knobs, and bigger batteries. The prices range from 500€ for starters to 2000€ for the professional user. The Panasonic GX85 in the image above is a recommendable example for a smaller and less expensive MFT. For more money, consider the OM system.
• APS-C is the next step with a sensor diagonal around 30mm. These cameras used to have a mirror and an optical viewfinder which displays the view through the lens via a mirror to the eye. But they come as mirrorless cameras now with a smaller form factor, and consequently with an electronic view finder showing an electronic image from the sensor which allows to add more information. The display can be tilted or even turned for video logging. There are some rare APS-C cameras with a fixed lens, but usually you can select a lens from the camera maker or compatible lenses from companies like Sigma or Tamron. The Nikon D7500 is a typical example for a DSLR at around 1200€ with the Sigma lens in the image above. More modern mirrorless APS-C cameras are made by Sony, Fuji and Canon. All three are good. Examples are the Sonly A6xxx series and the Fuji XT-x cameras, as well as the more recent affordable Nikon Z50.
• Full Frame is the old film size at 24x26mm with a diagonal of around 42mm in 3:2 format. The difference to APS-C is mainly the larger sensor, and consequently the larger body. Full frame cameras start above 1000€. The top cameras have prices between 2000€ and 5000€. Personally, I use a Nikon Z5. Other recommendable systems are the Sony Alpha line and the Canon RF cameras.
•  Medium Format has an even larger sensor, and plays almost no role in amateur photography.

Let us compare the sizes of typical cameras of these types with kit lenses (thanks to camerasize.com).

APS-C with mirror, Full Frame and MFT mirrorless

Clearly, MFT is the smallest camera and has the smallest lens. The APS-C on the left is the Nikon D5600. That was a compact DSLR with a mirror. You can clearly see the space required for the mirror. The thinner camera body of the full frame Nikon Z5 is compensated by the bigger lens, however. This is typical. Larger sensors require larger lenses. In the case of the Nikon Z system, the lenses are also optically a lot better than the same lenses of Nikon APS-C bodies. They use a larger diameter and more glass to get sharper images.

In general, a larger sensor means more weight, bigger size, and higher costs. It does not necessarily mean better images. Larger sensors provide advantages for object isolation by depth of field and in noise handling in low light. Smaller sensors yield a huge advantage in the telephoto range.

Due to the size and cost, many starters will not go to full frame which is the most expensive and largest of the formats. APS-C seems to be a good compromise. But even though MFT is losing ground it should not be written off. I would hold back from the compact sized cameras, because a smartphone might work just as well.

As mentioned at the start, I think that beginners should start with a kit lens. In the size comparison above, I have collected cameras with a typical kit lens. That would typically range from 24mm to 80mm on full frame, i.e., from a good wide-angle to a slight telephoto lens. 

To set you apart from smartphones, add one or two fast prime lenses to your camera.

Then go out and take photos! Get friends in the hobby, but be careful not to talk about gear too much. In the end, the images and the subjects you capture matter more.

Some unnecessary technical Information

This chapter brings some additional information that might be useful for newcomers. However, most modern cameras are good enough to take good images, be it MFT, APS-C or Full Frame. In the end, the creativity matters more. If any technical detail, it is the lens that counts.

For APS-C or MFT, all numbers can be adapted to full frame as follows.

To compare cameras with different sensor sizes to full frame, multiply the focal length and the aperture F-stop by the "crop factor".

We leave the detailed explanation of that equivalence to another post. By "crop factor" (better "form factor") we set 2 for MFT and 1,5 for APS-C. I.e., an image taken at 50mm F8 will look the same in terms of angle of view, depth of field and background blurriness like a 25mm F4 on MFT. The more closed aperture F8 can be compensated using a higher ISO and taking advantage of the better noise performance of the bigger sensor.

The main consequence is that you can do most images equivalently on any sensor size.

The exceptions are only at the extremes. E.g., a 50mm F1.8 full frame lens needs to be compensated by a 25mm F0.9 MFT lens, which is hard to construct. Thus, a full frame camera can isolate objects more easily. There are even F0.9 lenses for full frame.

On the long end, a small and light 200mm MFT lens works like a 400mm full frame lens which is usually very clumsy and heavy. Here, the MFT has an advantage.

MFT Macro

I am writing all those details to convince you that the sensor size should not keep you from making good images. Nor should you think you need the most expensive camera to shine. You can make good images with any modern camera. So, get an affordable one, and invest in a good prime lens instead. Once, you know the difference, you won't need my advice anyway.

Here is a list of important technical details to look at your camera.

• Image Stabilization. This can help a lot allowing 3 to 5 more stops in hand-held images. The Fuji XT-4 has it, but the XT-3 does not. The Nikon Z50 has no in-body stabilization (IBIS), but the available lenses have a good optical vibration reduction (VR).  The Nikkor Z 24-200mm travel zoom for full frame Nikon Z has a very good VR, but the 24-120mm has to rely on IBIS. Optical stabilization is to be preferred on long lenses. 
• Auto Focus. Some cameras do better than others, especially when it comes to automatic subject detection, faces or eyes. The Sony 6400 is very good for people, but otherwise a clumsy camera.
• Handling and displays. That includes a grip that fits to your hand, a good viewfinder (if you need and want one), a bright and sharp display, more than one control wheel and much more. My tip is to rent a camera. There are also some YouTubers which care for these details.
• Card Slots. I definitely want two card slots and backup each shot in the other slot. The second card is big and remains in the camera. Only the first card is used for editing. It is also important which cards are allowed in the camera. Some want new and expensive cards.

But most importantly, go out and make photos! Enjoy the process, enjoy being out!